Skin Health Through The Ages ft. Pamela Marshall
We had the pleasure of delving deep into our Resident Skin Health Expert's, Pamela Marshall, knowledge on all things changing skin. Read below to understand how skin differs through the ages...
Introduction to Skin Health:
Can you provide an overview of skin health and why it's important to maintain it throughout life?
Our skin is a bit like a window into our body's health status. If we're run down, struggling with digestion, under a lot of stress, and even sleep deprived, it will show in our skin via premature ageing, acne, eczema, rosacea, etc., so our skin isn’t just something we want to look nice, it’s a reflection of our internal health. Additionally, how our skin looks affects how we feel, so having healthier, more glowing skin may well make you feel better, too.
What key factors impact skin health at different stages of life for both men and women?
Hormonal fluctuations impact us throughout our lives. For women, our hormones fluctuate monthly until we go through menopause, so if we are predisposed to acne breakouts due to hormonal fluctuations (including PCOS), we will consistently throughout our lives struggle to fight to keep the skin calm.
Men on the other hand have a rise in hormones from early teens to mid to late 20s. If they're going to struggle with acne, this is the time that they will likely be affected – but there are definitely caveats to that. High androgen levels throughout life can continue that acne journey, drinking whey protein can affect the skin, not washing sheets regularly, and so on can also cause acne in adult men.
The process of ageing affects skin too, but it isn't dramatically different for women and men, bar the attitude that accompanies it being vastly different for men and women. Lifestyle and genetics play a much bigger part in our ageing process, but broadly speaking as we move through our years, our cell turnover slows down and our collagen and elastin will start to break down.
Skincare also really impacts the ageing process, and there is a disparity between the sexes here because, as a general rule of thumb, I see a lot more women looking after their skin younger than men, which has a knock on effect – skin that isn’t cared for properly over time gets angry and rebels.
The great news is that skin is extremely good at repairing itself, and often cleansing and hydrating skin properly, approaching both internally and externally, really makes a huge difference, along with applying SPF daily.
Childhood to Adolescence:
What are the major changes the skin undergoes during adolescence?
During these hormonal fluctuations, they can experience acne and even eczema; both are inflammatory conditions that can be addressed and reduced (but not necessarily completely cured) by lifestyle changes and using products that are specific to their skin needs. Very rarely does a young person need to have more than a few products, and generally never do they need to be using anti-ageing products; it’s enough to keep their oil production under control and to make sure they are practicing good hygiene: clean sheets, well washed hair, showering after exercise, etc. Some teens unfortunately go through something called precocious puberty where body moves into adulthood sooner than what is deemed normal. These children are more likely to experience acne at a much younger age than their friends. On top of that, some young women experience will be diagnosed with Polycystic Ovary Syndrome or even just high androgen (the male sex hormone) levels which can lead to increased sebum production and more consistent and often angry acne.
How can adolescents manage common skin issues like acne and sensitivity?
It's important to have a good routine. This does not mean expensive or complex. In my day we were told that if we cleanse to a squeaky clean level (ie stripping cleansers) that it would help our acne. In actuality, that harms our skins barrier function and can increase sebum production which will lead to more acne. I frequently tell my teen clients to try hard not to touch their face during the day, to keep their sheets clean, to disinfect their phones daily, and to keep their hair clean. All of my teenage acne clients also use Clinisoothe. It is essential for good skin health as it helps protect against the days environmental aggressors.
Young Adulthood (20s and 30s):
What changes do people experience in their skin during their 20s and 30s?
In terms of inflammatory conditions, young adulthood isn't vastly different from the teen years. The hope is that if they suffered with acne, by this time it will have calmed down. However, this is also the time in our lives when we are out having fun. Late nights, alcohol, long working hours etc will lead to skin problems for many, so the rules for adolescents remain in place.
What preventative steps should individuals take in this phase to maintain skin health?
Wash sheets weekly in hot water, keep phones disinfected, don't over complicate your skincare routine (no you do not need to use multiple acids and retinols at this point). Keep it targeted but simple. This is the age group that are more likely getting their information off social media. While some advice may be great, most of it is given in order to sell a product, so get advice from an expert and keep your routine simple so you don't get lost in the trap of always buying the next best thing. Always, always wear SPF every single day.
Midlife (40s and 50s):
How does the skin start to change in the 40s and 50s, particularly with hormone fluctuations in both men and women?
For women, we will start to really notice our age. Collagen and elastin degradation can be really accelerated at this time of life. Comparing ourselves to the people we see on TV or on social media can be soul destroying, so I remind my clients that healthy skin ages beautifully, and it’s a healthy approach, physically and mentally.
I always recommend SPF daily, and generally I try to get a product or two in that contain PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) to increase hydration and be the antioxidant work horse. I will often recommend microdosing a retinoid. Finding a moisturiser that is extremely well formulated with small amounts of actives in it is far better for the skin than overloading on retinoids and acids. Slow and steady wins the race to reduce the likelihood of creating more inflammation in the skin, which can result in underlying redness and even perioral dermatitis. Clinisoothe should be used after cleansing at all stages in life, but if you still suffer from acne spots (even just once a month), then it's important to keep this part of your routine as solid as possible.
For men, it's much the same as it is for women, although most men do not suffer from hormonal spots during this phase of life. Generally at this point in a man's life, he hasn't taken the best care of his skin. This is the time of life when the skin finally says 'enough is enough'. Skin that is not well cared for will become lipid depleted, red, reactive and more prone to eczema, and Clinisoothe and a great lipid hydrator will help decrease these problems.
What common skin issues arise during this period, and how can people address them? See above.
Later Life (60s and Beyond):
What are the typical changes in skin health as people age into their 60s and beyond?
This is a really interesting time. Many women in their 60s are pretty savvy and know what worked for them in their 50s. But after 60s you're looking at people that were skin educated at a different time. Many of those female consumers grew up cleansing their skin with a heavy cream and taking it off with a tissue, and then reapplying another cream, meaning they’ll likely have super soft skin as they won’t have necessarily over-taxed their skin with too many products or actives. However, we can't get to this time in life without a little 'life' showing. There will be lines and wrinkles, especially for those who’ve been overexposed to UV rays. We should never stop wearing SPF daily no matter our age. But at this time as the skins ability to rejuvenate itself is decreased, it's even more important to take care. Emollient cleansers, antioxidants and lipid-based creams work really well to keep the integrity of the skin intact.
How should skincare routines adapt to address issues like thinning skin or decreased elasticity?
We are not going to be able to remove or decrease lines and wrinkles during this time without surgery or injectables, but caring for skin will improve its health, which means more bounce and glow. Lipid products are essential for this, as is an emollient moisturiser, along with, of course, SPF every day. If clients have had too much UV exposure during their lives and are suffering from an unhappy capillary network, I will often recommend Clinisoothe as it's excellent at soothing the skin.
General Skin Care Advice:
Are there universal tips that apply to maintaining skin health across all life stages?
Absolutely. Never use a gel or foaming cleanser but rather a milky creamy balmy cleanse, which you remove with a warm flannel. Always use Clinisoothe daily. Always wash your face last in your routine (ie: brush teeth, shampoo, rinse, condition, rinse, cleanse face, remove with flannel). Always wash your sheets weekly in hot water. If you sweat, you must wash your hair and face afterwords before going to bed. Never go too long without washing your hair. Your hair may love it, but all the dirt and grime on your hair gets on your sheets and you roll in it nightly, and skin does not respond well to spending 8 hours rolling in dirty sheets.
What lifestyle factors (diet, sleep, stress) most impact skin health over time?
The main thing is not protecting your skin from UV exposure. Everyone should be wearing SPF on their face every day. Sleep is critical because it helps reduce stress which then helps reduce hormonal imbalances. It's a domino effect. Also, we think of water as being the way to hydrate, but good essential fatty acids are very important as well. Hydrated skin will only be well hydrated if we are getting good fats in our diet along with plenty of water.
Conclusion:
If someone is just starting to care for their skin at a later stage in life, what would be your top piece of advice? (same if someone is just starting out as a teen too).
My advice doesn't change too much based on age. The 'care' of skin needs to be consistent throughout life. So, with teens I do need to remind them to be better at washing their hair, sheets, etc.
For someone starting later in life, my advice is always about loving your skin for what it is. We will obviously work on getting the right ingredients on the skin, but the idea is to make the skin happy, hydrated, and healthy. The actual way skin functions doesn't change as we get older. We all produce oil, we all have to protect our skin from UV and environmental factors, we all have to consider our skin as an engine. They work the same, but different factors can make the engine room go into chaos. The factors that create chaos can be different as we age, but the engine room is the same. As it gets older it works slower, but it still has all the same components and functionality. What I look at is which particular factors are affecting this engine.
Where do you see Clinisoothe+ as an extra boost in supporting skin health through the years?
Clinisoothe is something that people should be using at all ages. Again, I refer back to the 'engine'. As we move through life, there will be different factors that effect the engine. Clinisoothe helps keep the engine running steady throughout every stage of life. In the teen years it may be helping to calm acne spots, but in our 40s it could be helping to soothe overly sensitised skin, and in our 70s and 80s it could be helpng us heal damaged or thin skin that may crack due to thinness and irritation. It is everyone's happy skin maker.
Try Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier, a gentle product to add to your skincare routine. Simply spritz your skin after cleansing and allow the product to soothe irritation and reduce the appearance of redness.
Clinisoothe+ Skin Purifier, £14.95/100ml
Pamela Marshall, our Resident Skin Health Expert, Clinical Aesthetician and Co-Founder of Mortar & Milk London.